From north to south
As I said in the short introduction this blog about Offa’s Dyke Path will cover more or less half of the trail and we decided to start north in Prestatyn and head southwards to Knighton. This was mainly decided because of some very practical reasons. One can get to Prestatyn by train. First from Brussels-South to London St. Pancras and from Euston to Prestatyn to Chester. This domestic journey lasts around 2 hours and 40 minutes, which is good, since one can try and get some rest or read about the journey ahead. And to enjoy the ever changing landscape, that becomes more and more green and hilly.
Prestatyn is one of the Welsh towns that was once very popular as a seaside resort, especially in the Victorian era and the early twentieth century, just like Llandudno among others. Today it’s still able to draw a crowd. Because of the ever increasing visitors, the town got its own holiday camps. The closer you get to the beach, the less charming the houses become. Logically, the other way around you see that the further you get from the promenade the more exclusive the residences become and the influence of Victorian splendor becomes visible. We decided to stay in one of those pretty houses. B&B Plas Ifan offered a pretty room and a good breakfast, and we could start our second hiking adventure in good spirit.
Prestatyn – Rhuallt (13 km/8m)
The path begins on the promenade, where you say goodbye to the Irish Sea (although there will be plenty of sea views left). Passing the city center you immediatly start to climb towards the Prestatyn Hillside. On the side of the path you can see gorse and ferns, which will both appear a lot more later on. Further ahead, you have a great view over the coastal town, the see and the windmills in the distance. It is worth the effort.
It immediatly becomes clear that this path is more challenging than Hadrian’s Wall, even after the first kilometre. A hasty conclusion? Well, time did tell our gut feeling was right. Once you pass the shrubs and plants, the rest of this part is characterised by green meadows and hills. Combined with the blue sky this forms a picture perfect landscape that just oozes that special Welsh wonderfulness.
Rhuallt – Bodfari (8 km)
Rhuallt is a small village with a pub and consisting of a number of streets, but that is about it. It’s not enough to keep us lingering there too long, so we immediatly continue our journey. The fields are roamed by many different kinds of animals, and their numbers are ever increasing. We mostly meet cows and sheep, but now and then we do encounter something more exotic, something you wouldn’t perhaps expect to see roaming freely in Wales. After some grumbling and spitting (from the animals obviously), Sara and I were able to find a way through.
After this strange encounter you mainly walk through the same kind of landscapes, rolling green hills, with kissing gates and stiles placed here and there to get through and over walls and hedges. Occassionally there are some architectural elements, like the little church of St. Bueno. After that you climb another hill, until you get on a path that is entirely made invisible by the ferns. With the hands up in the air we pushed and found ourselves a way through. You don’t climb that high on this very first day, but what characterises Offa’s Dyke Path is that it does go up and down a lot, without much a do. It’s often just straight forward, even if it makes for a really steep climb. Eventually we found ourselves a lovely hill and enjoyed the view.
After a last climb, testing the knees once more, we reached our destionation of the day, Bodfari. This first day was definitely memorable. The sea now lies behind us. In front of us is the first real challenge, the Clwydian range.
As often with these kind of villages you have a limited choice in Bodfari. We went to the Downing Arms, where we both took a hamburger and a good local beer. While going there we took a short but dangerous busy road. Thanks to local we had a safe yet more tiring route back to our B&B.
Finding a place to stay in Bodfari was not easy. Two B&B’s mentioned in our guides were no longer active and out of the other available ones one of the owner’s mother had just died and the other was fully booked because of a marriage. Luckily we could still book a room in Llety’r Eos Ucha. It was a clean and comfortably (and really big) room.
– The ll (double l) is pronounced like a slj in Wlesh, a bit like a llama blowing through his teeth. No coincidence that we met a couple of those along the way, I guess.
-Offa’s Dyke Path has it’s own sculpture symbolising both “the beginning” and “the end”, so it can be enjoyed by both the hikers that start and finish in Prestatyn.
-Apparently it’s a tradition to dip your shoe in the sea and take a shell from Prestatyn, so you can throw it in the Severn at the end of the trail.