Because of the fact that our accommodation was located in Llanferes, a couple of miles from the starting point at Clwyd Gate, we treated ourselves to a ride. The owner of the Druid inn brought us there, after a good breakfast. For some strange reason we had decided not to take a packed lunch for the day and trust in our parovita crackers and cheese. A fatal error, we would later found out. Unaware of our miscalculation we left for our third day of walking, one that would lead us out of the Clwydian Range and into the Dee valley.
Clwyd Gate – Llandegla
We had walked the main chunk of the Clwydian Range on the second day, but the third one began as the the previous one had ended. Again it went up and down and we passed some more hills, mostly walking the shoulder. First there was Moel Gyw (467 m/1532 ft). The royal breakfast we had half an hour earlier doesn’t make the climb easier. Some of the hill tops disappear in the clouds. After Moel Gyw we have two more to walk past, Moel Llanfair (447 m/1565ft) and Moel Y Plâs (440 m/1444 ft). After that we have left all the moels behind us and descend towards Llandegla. At first the clouds had disappeared, but from the moment we entered the small village the rain came pouring down on us. Luckily we found shelter in the little church nearby and waited till it stopped. We left Llandegla at noon, so we reckoned we could walk another our befoure having our lunch, so we decided to walk through the forest first.
Llandegla – Llangollen
Alas! With it being a 20km+ day and with quite a bit of ups and downs it would have been a rather long day of walking anyway. But this was prolonged by a gruesome and frustrating passage in Llandegla forest. The main culprit was a little bridge crossing a little stream and the absence of a sign post to lead the way. We became rather disoriented and got lost in the forest for about an hour. We tried every alternative route and became rather desperate, even contemplating walking back to Llandegla and taking the bus to Llangollen or going to the mountainbike centre in the forest and asking for a ride to the town. Luckily, in one final effort, I crossed the bridge once more and walked a bit further than I did before, finally finding the holy acorn sign, about three hundred metres from te bridge and onto the path that would take us through the wonderful heather. Meanwhile, we were very tired, rather unnecessarily, and hadn’t eaten enough. Rather stupid, since that is long distance walking 101.
The path brought us about half an hour later to a paved road. Rather knackered we sat down, rested a bit and ate our crackers and cheddar cheese. At that point it was half past two. The road wasn’t an ideal surface for tired feet either. Luckily the view, is quite sublime, a preview of the Panorama Walk we would walk on later, looking over the Dee valley. And there are plenty of beautiful things to come. First there’s the impressive rock formation called World’s End. But the real sublime (in both its literal and Romantic meaning) experience is then yet to come. The Eglwyseg Crags and its screes aren’t that high, but the relatively small path and the steep slope does make for an exciting walk if you have a mild form of vertigo. Luckily, again, the view is stunning.
Once past the crags the path descends and joins another road. This time it is the Panorama walk. Fun fact: our trailblazer guide mentioned “Peacocks live here” and yes, at the exact moment that we walked past the place we heard the heavenly sound of a couple of peacocks. In other news, we still had to walk another hour to Llangollen, without any food and just a bit of water. Lucky for us this wasn’t the desert and all we had to do was walk the road. Helping us was a reference point in the distance, the splendid ruins of Dinas Brân. Our agony was prolonged, even when walking towards Llangollen. We were promised a bench to rest, before doing the last twenty minutes. Unfortunately it was claimed by a woman who rode there by car to enjoy the view. We did rest a bit before descending into the pretty town and stumbled onwards, after a wonderful yet needlessly tiring day.
The Dee Corner Cafe Bistro is a good cafe bistro offering a large hamburger (with an extra portion of bacon) which was very welcome after our self-inflicted prolonged day of walking. Great portions, nice setting.
We chose to stay at the Llangollen Hostel for three nights, because of the fact my parents were visiting friends in Chirk at the time. We would use the next day to walk from Llangollen to Chirk and then have a rest day. So this good hostel with good facilities was an excellent and budget-friendly choice.
– The “ll” is pronounced as a, well, a shlj. You can best try it by placing your tongue against your front teeth and blowing. Shlangoshlen.
– The “w” is pronounced as a “oo” (or oe in Dutch). Eglwyseg becomes Eglooyseg.
– Of all the places in the world (outside) Belgium I’ve been to Llangollen the most. This was my eighth time.
– Llangollen isn’t part of Offa’s Dyke Path, but worth the small detour. Apart from the cosy centre it also offers the already mention Dinas Brân and Plas Newydd, the house of the ladies of Llangollen who welcomed the Duke of Wellington, Lord Byron and Sir Walter Scott among others.
– Dinas Brân means “castle of Brân”. Brân the blessedwas a Welsh king and a giant from the Welsh myths, including the medieval story cycle the Mabinogion.