We left the refugi of Son Amer with a sky filled with clouds. The weather forecast mentioned showers. This second day is also the one with the highest point on the trail and with wonderful panaromas. We were definitely hoping it would be a short affair and that we would get good views once we got up. And we were lucky enough. But first we had to descend back towards Lluc and start the misty climb towards the rocky staircase of the camí de ses Voltes d’en Galileu.
Son Amer – Camí de ses Voltes d’en Galileu
Our first hightlight of the day consists of the climb of the stairs of the camí de ses Voltes d’en Galileu, a cobbled set of staircases carved in the rocks, above the tree line. The first pat of this path, between Lluc and the staircases, already leads you 450 meters higher. This path mostly zigzags between the trees, and is quite manageable. Along this stretch you can see some remains of the past, like a charcoal pit and a snow house (case de neu), in this case Son Macip.
In these snowe houses the snow and ice was shoved together and during the summer it was used for gastronomic (ice and drinks) as well as medical purposes (for instance against burn marks. This was already in practice during the 17th century. From here you can spot the valley of Lluc, despite the presence of clouds and mist. After a while you reach the staircase, a comfortable path, although it can be quite exciting due to the fact there’s a rather steep drop next to it.
Camí de ses Voltes d’en Galileu – Coll des Prat
Once the “staircase” is climbed, you get to a bit without climbing (or descending). The views are a fine reward. The Serra de Tramuntana contrasts the blue sea in the background. The blue skies are yet to appear though. We can enjoy the Case de neu d’en Galileu, fully reconstructed, at a height of 1090 metres (3576 ft). This snow house is 14 metres in length, 7 metres broad and 6 deep and must have been able to contain quite a lot of ice. There’s also a ruined house in the vincinity, so it’s ideal to hide for the drizzle (and the cold wind)
After the snow house it takes some more climbing via a narrow path surrounded by sharp shrubbery (you do have to be careful when wearing shorts). After another 500 metres you arrive at the Coll de Telègraf. The path than goes down, again zigzagging and meandering, and goes up once again after that. The landscape is wonderful and because of the fact that the Serra de Tramantuna rises from the sea level you do get the idea that, despite it’s only 1000 metres, you are quite up high.
Meanwhile the clouds have mostly disappear. It remains rather cold, because of the altitude. But the blue skies do make a difference. In the distance you can see the Puig Major, the highest summit of Mallorca (1445 m/4741ft), which you cannot climb because there’s a military base up there. After another snow house and a rather steep descend and a relatively steep climb, you reach the Colldes Prat, the highest point of the day (and the trail) with its 1205 metres (3953 ft).
Coll des Prat – Tossald Verds
From the coll you have to descend 700 metres in about 6 kilometres. At first this happens rather steadily, in a similar kind of landscape. But after the while you go back under the tree line. From there on the descend is a bit more technical. Once inside the forest, the landscape transforms and you see new and interesting landmarks, like the Font des Prat, also known as the source of the Massanella, an ideal resting point near a small river (the days and weeks before our journey it has rained quite a bit, so the river isn’t as dried up as it normally is).
After that the path becomes quite rocky, with the pointy, sharp ends of the path testing the soles of the walking boots. You can spot a viaduct clinging to a cliff in the distance. The last part runs through a lush, green part, where you can choose between the high and the low road. Because we have to walk this part again on the next day, we choose for the latter. After a bit we arrive in our second refugi, the one from Tossald Verds, seemingly seperated from the rest of the world.
The refugi of Tossals Verds is named after the summit that lies near it and the domain where it is situated. Just like the one in Son Amer it has good basic facilities. This time there is hot water as well. There are also the obligatory Germans and they find it difficult to keep on their clothes once again.
Just like on the first day the vegetarion option consists of salad, tomatoes, bell pepper and red ognions.
– Apart from the two snow houses already mentioned, you can spot a few others, although not in a great shape, like the Case Rodna d’en Rubi and the Case de neu de Son Lluc. The last one is covered in bushes. The first one is already mentioned in 1637, the second in 1711.
– Thanks to these snow houses the population of Mallorca was able to enjoy ice cream and cooled drinks quite early on. The Can Joan de s’Aigo, a café that was established in the early 18th century lured people to Palma de Mallorca with ice creams and cooled drinks.