36,050 steps taken (27.3 km, of which 16.8 km on the GR 21)
Ascended 344 metres, descended 289 metres
Stormy weather
Fécamp had turned out to be a pleasant surprise and would bring some more assets to the table at the beginning of this 4th walking day. We climbed to the chapel which, like the one the day before in Étretat, was dedicated to fishermen and stood on a knoll. But the cliff that towered over the spot also housed a lighthouse and some Second World War bunkers. Add a lookout point, and our day got off to a fantastic start.
After a short passage through a forest and some fields, with the stately row of windmills in front, beside and, a little later, behind us, the unremarkable Senneville-sur-Fécamp followed. Unfortunately, not much later the equally uncharming Eletot appeared. But of course we were not here primarily for the villages, but rather for the nature. And it managed to live up to expectations. We descended into the forested valleys, where an active sea was accompanied by a very strong wind. We decided not to enjoy the view on the bench, but climbed up, where we got a nice view as a reward.
Shopping difficulties
Between the forests of the valley and Eletot, our feet had to endure the most horrific surface, a combination of the hardest concrete with gaps and pebbles with which the gaps were filled. But the GR gives and takes and we did find a cosy picnic bench in the village where our delicious saucisson was eaten, along with a baguette made by the master baker of France for Carrefour. In France, baguettes are important, if not sacred, even in your supermarket.
The last part of the day was somewhat special. The hotel’s restaurant, although listed in the Michelin guide, was unfortunately closed on Mondays. I myself had stumbled on that little fact only a day before. After visiting the local cemetery of Saint-Pierre-en-Port, with some Commonwealth war graves, we went to the local shop to stock up on provisions. Indeed, it was already the second night that we had to make do with some meagre, home-bought food.
After shopping, we sat on a bench on the coast of Les Grandes Dalles for a while. The sea there was turbulent and the beach quite small. Still, a few brave ones ventured into the water. A German girl came to hear us out about our hiking adventure. When that failed due to our lack of knowledge of German, the mother came. They also liked hiking holidays but had decided to camp in one place due to COVID.
Leaving the GR
2.5 km separated us from Sassetot, a charming village with the Chateau de Sissi next to our hotel. Although there was also a restaurant here, we felt we didn’t have the right attire for it. And so, after the walk, we bravely made our way to our chambres d’hôtes, where, after setting up, we ate our supper, a bag of Brett’s crisps, on a bench on the local village green, after which we organised a game night.
The food
Brett’s wood-fired oven-baked pizza, biscuits and Coke Zero
The stay
Les Relais des Dalles offered another little room, again a bit bigger than the previous one and perfect for catching your breath
From the sea to the land beyond 