Stage 2: Kurort Rathen – Königstein

Today, some pre-announced highlights were on the menu. Our experience yesterday taught us that this meant paying attention for the motivated day tourist. That was certainly the case for the iconic Bastei Bridge. And so it was a case of leaving early enough. After an early breakfast, we were able to leave Rathen behind them at a little after eight.

The Malerweg icon and a special castle ruin

A short climb took us to the Bastei Bridge, with stunning views of some impressive rock formations and the surrounding landscape. Upon arrival, there were barely any people to be seen. Ten minutes later, the situation was already very different. Our choice strategically turned out to be the right one. This allowed us to enjoy this highlight, where you feel very small and insignificant on the large bridge in this impressive landscape.

Our hiking description then sent us to the soulless catering complex, although it seemed to me that we still wanted to score a panorama of the bridge somewhere. So we turned back and got the familiar breathtaking view that graces many a promo photo. Of course, it’s not always about the photos and panoramas, but this one was incredibly beautiful.

While we were at the bridge again, we continued a little further towards our starting point, where the remains of a startling castle stand. The Neurathen ruins could be visited via a tangle of steel bridges, some with a bit more precipice than others. In any case, it was a short but enjoyable visit to a handsome piece of castle architecture embedded in the rocks.

Even more fairytale-like

After both these small but more than justified sidesteps, we went past Bastei again and so somewhat away from the tourist feeling, until we reached the Steinerne Tisch, where the German explanations vaguely said something about Electors and hunting traditions. The collection of stones could certainly offer a suitable picnic spot at another time, but we were only just on our way.

Then followed a passage reminiscent of the bit after Hohnstein, only it was all even grander, cleaner and more majestic. Rocks towered above us, often mossy. Impressive tree trunks lay snapped on the ridge. Almost every rock was photogenic. It was quite a (nature) experience to walk here.

A second castle and a rocky table mountain

A short stretch of tarmac took us to the cosy little town of Stadt Wehlen. Here, too, we could walk past remnants of a castle. Although this one was slightly less well preserved and its location and views were a bit less spectacular. After a short break in Wehlen’s market square, we took the ferry. Contrary to expectations, our hotel guest card was not valid on this ferry, which was made rather unfriendly by the driver (with two “neins”). So we paid €1.80 each for a trip of no more than 30 metres.

A second castle and a rocky table mountain

After briefly following the Elbe on the other side, it was climbing again. At first it seemed to be a modest continuation by local hiking standards on a pleasant forest path. But that was without counting the passage over the table mountain Rauenstein. The hike took us over and between rocks with stone and iron steps and rocky passages, occasionally aided by a railing.

The number of day tourists made it clear that this was very popular, but then again the views were phenomenal. After a longer stretch of iron steps down, it was on a wide path between meadows to the small village, Weißig, which served as the lunch spot of the day today.

This was followed by a second stretch of field road, with fragrant flowers, and another forest path that led past a small mausoleum and a viewpoint. The small village of Thurnsdorf was still crossed on the way to our final destination of the day, Königstein and the fortress castle we had been able to observe several times in the distance.

The fortress and the remote residence

There we arrived via an ascending forest path, a busy car park and our hotel Landgasthof Neue Schanke. The fortress looked impressive on the rock and we had been able to admire it from all sides from afar. Inside, it was gigantic and sometimes a little lost, although there were some specific highlights such as the mural in the little church, the frivolous schloss Frederick, the deep well and the ever-growing wine barrels (which did break down quickly). Still, it was a bit too pricey.

And on leaving the castle, it suddenly started to rain heavily. We were able to wait a while to make it to the hotel relatively dry. It is located on the other side of the hill and thus somewhat away from the village itself. Therefore, and also because of our fatigue and our modest midday meal, we decided to have the local snack. The schnitzels with fries were not too high quality but it was filling. And that there was a dead wasp in my glass, expertly removed with a spoon by the cook, we will just turn a blind eye.