GR 21: Alabaster Coast (Normandy)

Introduction: https://seatothelandbeyond.wordpress.com/2023/08/18/gr-21-an-introduction/

Stage 1: Montivilliers – Villainville https://seatothelandbeyond.wordpress.com/2023/08/22/day-1-montivilliers-villainville/

From Le Havre we take the train to Montivilliers, where after a short visit we start our hike on the GR 21. The first stage is the only one where we don’t get to enjoy the sea. However, we do get a landscape full of meadows and fields. Occasionally an old railroad line or a water tower can be spotted. However, the most spectacular part comes at the end, with a dangerously busy road.

Stage 2: Villainville – Étretat https://seatothelandbeyond.wordpress.com/2023/08/26/day-2-villainville-etretat/

A short hike that leads to the coast. The first part starts again with fields and meadows, followed briefly by a stretch through a pleasant forest. After the pretty village of Le Tilleur, it is another short walk through fields to arrive at the famous cliffs of Étretat, immortalized by Monet and many other painters. It is a beautiful natural setting with a crowded beach.

Stage 3: Étretat – Fécamp https://seatothelandbeyond.wordpress.com/2023/09/09/day-3-etretat-fecamp/

For the first time, the GR21 goes almost entirely along the coast. And because of the lovely cliff path at the start, we even unconsciously ignore a section that leaves the sea behind for a while and continue walking through beautiful nature. There are also two cosy villages today, of which Yport in particular charms. After a stretch of climbing and descending, we arrive in Fécamp, a town with a marina and a piece of top Norman history.

Stage 4: Fécamp – Sassetot-le-Mauconduit https://seatothelandbeyond.wordpress.com/2023/12/03/day-4-fecamp-sassetot-le-mauconduit/

Like the day before, the path climbs right at the start to a chapel overlooking the hill, with a lighthouse and some bunkers on offer alongside. A stretch next to some windmills takes us to some less interesting villages, but a little later a great panorama. We were taunted by terrible ground, but then it was on through the fields to Les Grandes Dalles. Then it was a good two kilometres to our place of accommodation.

Stage 5: Sassetot-le-Mauconduit – Saint-Valéry-en-Caux https://seatothelandbeyond.wordpress.com/2024/01/01/day-5-sassetot-le-mauconduit-saint-valery-en-caux/

The first of a diptych over 26 kilometres. After some climbing and descending between les Grandes and Petites Dalles, it heads away from the coast for a while to return to the water at Veulettes-sur-Mer, with its coastal river and World War II educational trail. It then does a loop around a nuclear power plant, which is unfortunately less engaging and ends in a seemingly endless 5-kilometre stretch through fields. Fortunately, Saint-Valéry-en-Caux can charm on the stormy eve.

Stage 6: Saint-Valéry-en-Caux – Quiberville https://seatothelandbeyond.wordpress.com/2024/01/06/day-6-saint-valery-en-caux-quiberville/

This is the longest hiking day on our GR 21. From Saint-Valéry-en-Caux it goes up, with a short passage through some fields and a small wind farm. Today there are lots of pretty villages, such as Manneville-ès-Plains, with its Normandy cottages and Veules-les-Roses, with its water mills and France’s shortest river. From there, it is on to the coastal village of Saint-Aubin-sur-Martin, with its colourful cottages. The last resting point is the little chapel dedicated to Saint-Julien. Then it is downhill to Quiberville, a small seaside resort.

Stage 7: Quiberville – Dieppe https://seatothelandbeyond.wordpress.com/2024/01/08/day-7-quiberville-dieppe/

This last day presents some more beautiful scenery and villages. From Quiberville, it goes through a forest to a lighthouse. This is followed by Varengeville-sur-Mer, with its small church with stained-glass windows made by Georges Braque, who is also buried here. The GR descends to a nice spot among the cliffs before climbing and descending back to Hautot-sur-Mer. The last stretch leads through the suburbs to Dieppe.