Stage 3: Königstein – Kurort Gohrisch

Discovering Königstein

Neue Schanke had been our base all evening. In fact, it was not possible to just explore the village itself. We always had to do that by climbing the bit to the castle and then descending considerably. On the third walking day, however, we would do this as part of the route, after a breakfast in which artistically cut sausages stole the show.

So after checking out, we had to climb again and then descend quite briskly through a forest. So we arrived in Königstein which has quite a pleasant centre. It made it extra unfortunate that we should have spent the night on the other side of the hill. Anyway, we could stock up on provisions for two days here and take a sanitary stop. I did suddenly fear that my glasses had been left behind in our previous stay, but returning was not really an option. It was waiting for luggage tonight.

Another Malerweg icon

Once out of Königstein, there was immediately a steep ascent, first along a small local road, then again along a forest road and so to a forest, where we would spend quite a long time on this short hike. The narrow, winding path led past rock formations and hilltops with names like Kletterhöle and Quirlwachter, as well as a stone drinking trough. Then the forest was briefly abandoned before heading to the highlight of the day, the Pfaffenstein massif, not much later. The way towards it was already accompanied by an increase in jagged and imposing rocks and formations.

And we could feast on a triptych of natural entertainment. First was the side trip to the Barbarine, a 42-metre-high rock needle and local darling. It required some searching but fortunately we did not miss this gem. Perseverance won out in this one. The road to it was also via a first narrow gorge.

Rocks and descents

Once we returned, we had two options. Option 1 was an easy descent, option 2 gave us panorama but, according to the guidebook, also a tough descent. We opted for the full experience and thus chose the latter. After doing some climbing and passing the local hospitality spot on the plateau, we did a tour of the panoramas of all kinds, including the Teufelskessel, the Dom and the Einsamer Ritter. It also turned out to be a good picnic spot. What did stand out were the many young parents and very young babies who also ventured the hike.

Then there remained the descent along the so-called Nadelöhr, a bottle neck that required a ladder and steep iron steps for a while. I managed to wriggle through with some scraping of the rucksack. The sections after that were relatively challenging due to the height differences of the stones and steps, but rather traditional in terms of descent skills.

A spa town with limited restaurants

We descended further to Pfaffendorf, a small cosy village, and finally to Kurort Gohrisch, equally cosy, slightly larger, but also with many lodgings and little catering. Luckily, we stayed at Pension Villa Irena, where they were helpful enough to make reservations for us. Just before, we had also tried our first (and only) ice cream.

Eventually we made our way to Margaretehof, a cosy restaurant belonging to the hotel of the same name. We ventured in for a starter (goat cheese croquettes and mushroom soup). For the main course, we took the local speciality, Bohemian goulash with knödelen. It was tasty and the service was friendly. I unintentionally surprised the waitress by accidentally giving a twenty euro note instead of five as a tip. Fortunately, she was honest enough to say that was really too much.

Find more walks on Malerweg here: https://seatothelandbeyond.wordpress.com/malerweg-and-sachsische-schweiz/

Day 1: Le Puy-en-Velay – Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille

On the road to Stevenson’s Way

225 kms to go – 32.702 stepts (26 km, 19 km on the GR 70)

534 meters ascended, 236 meter descended

Le Puy-en-Velay (625 m) – Coubon (633 m) – Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille (930 m)

The road to Compostella

Walking at last. Enjoying the freedom that walking brings. The knowledge that each step takes you further from starting point A and closer to finishing point B, without having to have a how and a when. But every good walk starts with a good breakfast, which serves as a foundation for being able to walk for several hours without the stomach starting to rumble and the legs weakening.

Hotel Bristol scored well in this respect. The pure French breakfast, about which more later, was extended here with different kinds of cheese, ham, fruit, cereals, fresh yoghurt and plain cheese. And also orange juice, apple juice and a whole range of hot drinks that could be scored via a handy and user-friendly device.

Our luggage transfer had a clear advantage. It saved us a few kilos on the back and in case of rain we could count on a guaranteed dry outfit in the evening. But it also had some negligible disadvantages. Firstly, it is handy to have everything with you. In the past, I have had to change my shirt during a walk, especially after a bit of raining at a fairly high temperature. Then your T-shirt might be wetter from sweat than from the rain itself. Secondly, our transfer service, Malle Postale, worked according to the agreement that the luggage had to be ready at 8 o’clock at the latest, so that we always had a bit of an early morning and breakfast.

It didn’t take us too long to leave Le Puy behind us and to swap the city streets for forest tracks, dirt roads and gravel. For a large part of today’s walk we would be following the Camino. We would meet quite a lot of fellow hikers, but would outwalk most of them early on. The first two people we met were a couple. The husband was maintaining a steady pace, a good 30 metres ahead of his wife, who didn’t seem to be that enthusiastic. The second hiker was a bit more peculiar, wearing a heavy plastic bag in his left hand as well as a backpack. It must have been quite unpractical, especially on the first climb on a forest track with stones scattered here and there.

Cats of the Cevennes

Today’s stage would bring us to small hamlets like L’Holme and L’Herm and villages like Courbon, where a young Loire runs towards a lonely ruin. In Flanders most of these places would be part of a bigger community. Many of these consist of only a few streets or houses. But in this sparsely populated area some of these villages, often with less than 100 inhabitants, have a maire and a mairie.

The first stage is mostly pastoral, with gentle slopes, stacks of hay and a couple of cows in the distance. The landscape of the Velay is shaped by vulcanic activity and it’s a treat for hikers. Just before heading into a small forest we get a last look over le Puy-en-Velay, with its prominent features towering over the city, the cathedral, the church on the plug, the Red Madonna and a few kilometres outside the city, the chateau de Polignac.

Spontaneously a series of photo opportunities emerged. Just before the village of Volhac we were greeted by a black and white cat. Being cat enthusiasts we set out to capture as many cats as possible, perhaps even enough for a Cats of the Cevennes-calendar. With 12 days of walking left, we weren’t being too ambitious. However, not every day would prove to be as succesful.

Another recurring phenomenon on this first day of walking was the prominent appearance of crosses. Between Le Puy and Le Monastier we saw all sorts of crosses, in different shapes, heights and from different eras. In the first village we entered, in Ours, there was one from the 12th century. After that a dozen crosses crossed our paths. It was as authentic a symbol of the religious traditions of the Velay as the procession we saw the day before in Le Puy. Cats of Stevenson. Crosses of Stevenson.

Not yet on the Chemin de Stevenson

My use of Stevenson is not entirely correct. This was our first day of walking but in fact it was a prologue. The Scottish writer didn’t stay in Le Puy-en-Velay for too long and went straight for Le Monsatier-sur-Gazeille, which was the actual starting point of his journey. Maybe a Protestant like him wasn’t too keen on staying to long in a place which such Catholic fervor. In a little place called Le Monastier, in a pleasant highland valley fifteen miles from Le Puy, I spent about a month of fine days. These were the first wordt he wrote in his Journey Through the Cevennes. Today’s starting point wasn’t worth more than a mention.

And yet our first day was undoubtedly the real deal. The forest tracks, the pastoral panoramas, the little villages with old churches and ancient crosses. It’s definitely not something that “has to be done”, waiting until the trail really shows its true colours. That was the case when we did our first long distance hike, the Hadrian’s Wall Path. It took the first 14 kilometres, through the suburbs and the center of Newcastle, to really take off. After leaving Le Puy you’re immediatly surrounded by wonderful scenery. And the few signs of civilization that cross your path are villages or hamlets with a maximum of 80 inhabitants.

One of those hamlets was L’Herm, another collection of houses with two strategically places stone benches. It was an ideal moment for a lunch break. And to make it even better, there was another cat! Ten left to go. After this short stop we only had 4,5 kilometres left. The gravel road soon changed into a grassy track and we almost felt like we were walking on Hadrian’s Wall Path once more. In the distance today’s destination became clearly visible. What a lovely day.

Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille

Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille would prove to be an archetype of the villages we would see and stay for the night. Narrow streets, old houses and churches. In this case also a monastery that gave it’s name to the village. Built on the site of two earlier churches, the abbatical church has its origins in the 11th century and grew in size as well as regional importance. After a partial colapse it had to be restored. The organ of 1518 dates from that periode. Afterwards its dominance would decrease and at the end of the 16th century it would come under the influence of Cluny. It would be disbanded during the French Revolution. Today it’s a must when visiting the small village.

According to Tripadvisor, the village also had an interesting museum about folk culture and popular beliefs. The second part was correct, the first debatable. The Musée des Croyances Populaires is a small museum, situated in the castle, that collects different folk tales and portrays them with rather ugly model figurines. Apart from the usual suspects, like enchanting ladies in white, devils disguised as animals and fairies and trolls it also features less known creatures from the Occitan culture. It is definitely made with great care and love, but the entrance fee of 5 euro is a bit pricey.

The accomodation

We stayed in Le Provence, which is more French than Bristol, but unfortunately less charming. It was a rustic 2 star hotel. The first room we were give wasn’t cleaned, so we got a new one, with an extra bed and a lot more space, although the television was rather on the small side.

The food

After paté, we got pork with a lot of gnocchi, which was good, but a bit too much as a portion. Because of that we also refused the cheese, which, as it would turn out, would prove to be part of a standard four course meal. We did however had room enough for a decent tiramisu.

Conclusion

And that was it for our first day. We left our hotel to enjoy the silence of the evening. After failing to find the memorial plaque that marks the official start, we sat on a bench and Sara started drawing the little church near our hotel. In the distance we saw silhouettes of the hills, in the direction where we were heading tomorrow. The epilogue of the prologue or the prologue of the Chemin de Stevenson had come to end. Tomorrow we would finally begin our journey on the GR 70.

3. Tossals Verds – Sóller

Tossals Verds

As was the case upon arrival, the surroundings of the Tossals Verds refugi was wonderful in the morning, amid the Tramuntana mountains, greener than usual at this time of the year. There are to options on the stage to Sóller. You can choose the official trail or make a detour via pas Llis, which will lead you to a rocky and narrow part with some steel cables for extra security. We opted for the normal route. It ended up as one of my favourite hiking days ever.

Tossals Verds – Cúber

Because we chose the regular route, we had to track back and walk a part of yesterday’s stage. We had chosen the low road to reach Tossals Verds so now took the high road to leave it. The relatively narrow path climbs quite steeply, but the trees provide some shade and shelter, even though the sun was already burning brightly. After the narrow path, we end up on yesterday’s rocky stretch. After that we finally head towards a new direction and follow the artificial canal in the direction of the two reservoirs Gorg Blau and Cúber.

The canal leads the way for quite a long time and we decide to construct a boat made out of leaves and put it to sail. Although the temperature is starting to rise, it is a wonderful hike. The closer we get to the reservoirs, the more often we see Puig Major, and its accompanying military base. After passing Gorg Blau it’s only a short distance to the lake Cúber, surrounded by terracces and the beginning of the hike up Coll de l’Offre. A truly stunning place.

Cúber – Coll de l’Offre

The Cúber reservoir has a maximal capacity of 4,6 hm³ and where it first was used for generating electricity it now is the main source of the water supply of Palma de Mallorca, the capital of the island. Not easy with an ever increasing drought. In any case, the reservoir is the starting point of one of the most popular routes in Mallorca. From the lake you can go up to the Coll de l’Offre and down the breathtaking Barranc de Biniaraix towards Sóller, even if you’re not a natural born hiker.

We take the path to the right of the lake, in a wonderful environment with plenty of flora and fauna to admire, especially if you like birds. One has to mind for ticks in the grass, as is pointed out by a carefully placed sign. After a short break at the other side of the reservoir, it’s only half an hour to the Coll de l’Offre. The sudden increase of hikers and people admiring the view over the bay of Sóller is a clear indication that this is indeed a popular route.

Coll de l’Offre – Barranc de Biniaraix

From the Coll de L’Offre you can see the final destination of this stage. The bay of Sóller is clearly visible. Between Cúber, already at a height of 770 metres and the coll lies only about 100 metres difference in height. From there on it’s literally all downhill. Over a relatively short distance from 900 metres (2952 ft) to 100 metres (328 ft), to the small village of Biniaraix, taking one of the most breathtaking paths on the entire GR. We’ve obviously chosen the right direction, going down instead of 800 metres up. At first the path climbs down via a track through the trees. About a kilometre further down, past a farm, you finally reach the barranc or gorge with its accompanying camí.

Barranc de Biniaraix – Sóller

The gorge of Biniaraix runs between the Cornadors and the Morro. The slopes of the hills are covered with impressive terraces, mostly used for the cultivation of olives. From here it goes down quite steeply, following the old path of the camí de barranc de Biniariaix, with plenty of dry stone walls and cobbled paths. Once you reach the bottom of the Barranc there is plenty left to enjoy. There’s a waterfall, a small canal and step stones leading past a dried up river. Sóller isn’t that far away, yet you feel totally secluded in this unique place.

When leaving the camí there are only two small villages, Biniaraix and the hamlet Binibassí, between you and Sóller. There’s not a lot to be seen here, although we can have the first taste of Sóller’s famous lemon ice cream.

Sóller

Sóller is a little town in the middle of the valley with the same name. It was originally founded by the Arabs, just like most of the villages I mentioned above, but was transformed into a popular residential seaside town at the end of the 19th century, with a rather popular beach and promenade.

The accommodation

We spent a couple of days in Sóller, because the grandparents of our friends have a house there, his grandmother being Mallorcan.

The food

Because we’ve only just arrived we chose a restaurant on the main square of Sóller. The food wasn’t bad, but I can’t really remember what it was, so I’m sure it wasn’t that unbelievably memorable.

Trivia

– The Puig Major is with its 1145 metres (4740 ft) the highest mountain top of Mallorca, but because there is a military base on top it’s not accesible. The base is a American radar complex built in 1958 (yes, during the reign of dictator Franco)

– A warning sign for ticks isn’t without its purpose. A tick removal tool is a must when you’re going out for a hike.

– The names in Sóller and the direct surroundings point to the presence of muslim influence. Remember that Bin comes from Ibn, which means son of. In Sóller there’s a festival which include a reenactment of a battle where the villagers defeated the Morish pirates.

 

GR 221: A short summary

BREAKING: After finishing my trip report for Hadrian’s Wall Path (North-England) and Offa’s Dyke Path (Wales/England) I can present a different kind of trip in an entirely different country. No sheep-clad green hills, no Norman castles, Roman walls, fish & chips, pubs, mountains with more consonants in their name than is comfortably pronounceable. For this next route we head south, to the Balearic island of Mallorca, where we can find the GR 221 or the Ruta de Pedra en Sec.

La Ruta de Pedra en what?

The GR 221 is called La Ruta de Pedra en Sec, translated as the dry stone route. Websites and guidebooks offer different explanations why it’s called that way. Some refer to the rock formations of the Tramuntana mountains. Others point out the cobbled paths you follow along the route, while another alternative consists of the walls and terraces built on the island throughout the centuries.

It doesn’t matter that much anyway. All of the above are perfectly true. The Tramuntana mountains are there throughout the majority of the trail, sometimes in the background, but mostly you’ll walk its paths. Because it can get very hot quite early in the year, its slopes and paths often consist of bare, dry rock. You do follow woodland tracks or paved roads from time to time. The latter are often routes used by shepherds and were restored meticulously by the Consell de Mallorca. At the same time there are often dry stone walls at the side of the path, with vistas over terraces, mainly used for olive trees. Add lots of sun, sea and good food to all of this and you have the perfect combination for a wonderful hiking trail.

Hiking trail?

The GR 221 lies on the northern side of the island and goes from the east (Pollença) to the west (Port D’Andratx). The latter stages aren’t completely covered with signposts. It’s best to use a good map, the official guide and the cairns indicating the path. The biggest part of the path however, that between Pollença and Deià is clearly marked. It’s difficult to get lost on this bit. Apart from the official route there are also a couple of  alternative sections (variant). Mallorca has a lot of wonderful routes to offer besides the GR 221 and they can sometimes be added to the main journey.

This trip report will consist of the same elements as the other two, although there are a couple of changes. First of all, the GR 211 is a path that mainly sticks to the nature of the Tramuntana mountains and the sea. This means that there aren’t as many options available for cultural or historical visits. But, of course, wherever I’m able I will discuss the history and the culture along the route. Secondly, we stayed in Sóller for a couple of days. We walked the route with two friends. His grandmother is originally from Mallorca and they have a residence there. Since we were able to stay there, “accommodation” and “food” in Sóller wouldn’t be as useful, because we didn’t stay in a hotel or refugi and mainyl cooked our own food. But needless to say, the GR 221 is a magnificent route on a fantastic island. So I gladly invite you along the Ruta de Pedra en Sec, and hope you’ll enjoy it.

7. Welshpool – Montgomery (18,5 km/11,5m)

Welshpool

We had entered Welshpool by the path next to the canal and decided to take a other way to head back towards the official path. Sometimes it’s better to chose the route you already know, even if you won’t discover any new sights. We went through the center of the town, following less than charming roads in the suburbs. After a while you link up with the canal once more, and that’s a good thing. Our return to the Offa’s Dyke Path meant an added total of 2,5 km, but luckily, we would see some pretty sights today.

Welshpool – Kingswood & Forden (10 km/6,2 m)

The first part of the stage is a relatively steep hike to the top of Beacon Hill, an old hill fort amidst a beech forest and a telephone mast on top of it. Thanks to the yellow fields of grain the climb is not only challenging but also visually pleasant. The top of Beacon Hill was the perfect place for a short break.

The highlight of the day was the passage through Leighton Estate, a very agreeable path through an imposing forests. These woodlands are not only used to please hikers, but here roam dozens and dozens of pheasants. It may have been fun to be surrounded by those manic birds, but it was obvious that these animals were bred as proverbial cannon fodder. Once you leave the forest you enter the small villages of Kingswood & Forden.

Kingswood & Forden – Montgomery (8,5 km/5,3m)

The second part, heading towards Montgomery, offers a more pastoral experience and leads you to fields and meadows. It was here that one of the bloodiest battles in the English civil war, in the 17th century, was fought, in the vicinity of Montgomery. During this 8,5 km you can spot a bit more of the Dyke itself. It is a quiet, peaceful and easy stroll and a good place to walk.

Montgomery

Montgomery is probably one of the prettiest places we’ve seen on this first half of Offa’s Dyke, a small village with beautiful houses. Despite its relatively modest size, you can spend quite a few hours if you’ve arrived early. The local museum has a surprisingly interesting collection and the castle, although it’s actually a ruin, is also a must, especially since you get a lot of interesting information during your visit.

The food

It was proven once more that small villages can offer great food along a relatively touristic long distance trail. I chose a risotto and my girlfriend picked the vegetarian pasta. I also have fond memories of the chocolate cake.

The accommodation

The Dragon Inn is a neat hotel with spatious room and a very good shower (quite important while walking in summer). The staff was very friendly, which was especially welcome since we had to order a taxi for our next day.

Trivia

– The border country become of great strategic importance from the invasion of William the conqueror onward. It was called the Marshes, a buffer between England and the Welsh kingdoms.

– Montgomery got its name from one of those Norman noblemen, loyal to William of Normandy, Roger de Montgomery.

4: Chollerford – Once Brewed (21,4 km/13,3 m)

Chollerford

Our travel guide made no bones about it. The stage between Chollerford and Once Brewed was arguably the most memorable of the entire trail, but also the toughest section. Most people we had met on the first three days of our walk, whether it was a B&B-owner or a fellow hiker, shared that sentiment. The terrain would be a bit more challenging, the wall a more loyal companion along the way and the vistas would become more spectacular than before. We were a bit precautious and nervous about this one, due to our lack of experience with long distance walking. This was our first trail after all. The gentle hillsides that we had seen on the first few days would transform into slopes that would put our stamina to the test. Almost every hiker we saw or talked to was using the luxury of luggage transferal, bringing their heavy load from one accommodation to the other. We decided to keep our backpacks with us, along with the extra weight. This called for an extra slice of bacon at breakfast!

Chollerford – Brocolitia Fort (5,5 km/3,4m)

The stage begins with a seemingly soulless passage, next to a busy road. Seemingly, because not only were we able to admire two of the most lifelike statues of lions that I, as an enthusiast of lion statues, ever saw, but your attention is also drawn to a farmhouse that looks more like a quirkily shaped castle. It wasn’t the first indication that Chollerford is in no way lacking wealth and splendour.

We soon left modern civilisation behind us. The further we went away from the road and into the fields, the more the landscape and path started to go up and down and down and up. After a few kilometres you arrive in Black Carts, where another fine piece of wall awaits the eager hiker. But this place offers more than “just” the wall and for a minute the reason of existence of this national trail  shifts to the background for a historical novelty. A few hundred meters further lies a limestone graveyard. The Romans apparently tried using the limestone to build this stretch of the wall but got frustrated by all the fruitless hacking and pickaxing and dumped the colossal rocks. According to our guide Limestone corner was the northernmost point of the Roman empire.

Brocolitia Fort – Housesteads (8,6 km/5,3m)

The second stretch of the stage begins at Brocalitia Fort. The fort itself looks quite a bit different to the trained eye than the other ones we saw in the first few days. The eye-catcher of this place is the small temple dedicated to Mithras. Mithraism was a religion, originating in modern day Iran, and practiced in the Roman Empire. It was especially popular with the Roman soldiers, who spread the practice of worshipping the deity to every corner of the empire. The temple, called a mithraeum, consists of a couple of altars and a small statue of Mithras. These are all cast replicas. The original copies are displayed in a museum in Newcastle, safe from potential damage caused by heavy weather, wind or careless tourists.

Despite the increasing difficulty of the terrain (relatively speaking, this is still an accessible hike for all sorts of walkers) we did get the company of more and more people. Brocolitia Fort is a popular starting point for a day trip to and from the most spectacular portion of Hadrian’s Wall Path. An easy way to admire and enjoy the marvel of emperor Hadrian’s legacy. This is the begin of an area consisting of hills and crags, such as King’s Hill or Kennel Crags, places where the wall remained intact and survived the elements and the need for building material, mainly because there was a lack of settlements or human activity nearby. Upon reaching Housesteads, we already have tamed 14 kilometers, two thirds of the stage. After that the path became really tiring for us amateur-walkers, but what an impressive, fulfilling and awe-inspiring experience.

Housesteads – Steel Rigg (Once brewed) (7,3 km/4,5m)

In Housesteads you can visit the fort with the same name. Because of feet that were starting to ache and the will to arrive on time in the youth hostel we decided to skip a visit to the museum and prepared ourselves for the last 7 kilometres of this beautiful but challenging stage. The ascends and descends were increasingly steep. In some places stepping stones were placed to ease the climbing and descending. The last bit was breath-taking, both literally and figuratively speaking. Feet were starting to hurt, calves were getting sore and the weight of our backpacks was harder to ignore with every step we took.

After more exhausting ups and downs and a short walk over the Highshield Crags, a part that somewhat feels like a modest cliff walking experience. Last but not least, a final surprise awaited us. The cat stairs are steep enough for the average walker, but with tired feet and the weight of the backpacks we needed to pay full attention to the descend. Just a kilometre further we finally reach our destination, knackered but happy.

The food

Immediately after arriving in the youth hostel we plundered a pack of Oreo’s. We also ate at the hostel, a simple yet tasty hamburger with “French” fries. My girlfriend took the vegetarian one.

The accommodation

YHA Once Brewed was opened in 1934 and is one of the oldest hostels of the Youth Hostel Association in the UK. Needless to say, it could use a refurbishment here and there, especially the shower facilities (when we were there back in 2014, it might have changed since then!), but still value for money.

Trivia

– Nearby the temple of Mithras you can also find the rudimentary remains of a well, dedicated to the Celtic goddess Coventina. During excavations in the surrounding area archeologists found 22 altars and 16000 Roman coins.

– On the location of our last resting place, Sycamore Gap, stands a, surprise surprise, sycamore tree. It was made famous by Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves, a movie starring Kevin Costner as the righteous bowman.

– The large stretch of wall starting at Housesteads is often called the Clayton Wall, after the archeologist John Clayton who bought the piece of the wall and restored it, in doing so often diverting from the way the Romans had envisaged and built it.

– A part of the wall between Housesteads and Steel Rigg was damaged in 2004 after a group of 800 Dutch bankers walked on the remains for the entire stretch. It may have been a good team-building activity, but it was a terrible idea.

– The village Once Brewed is also called Twice Brewed. Both names are in use. If you come from the east, you’ll see a sign welcoming you to “Once Brewed”, if you come from the south, you’ll see “Twice Brewed”.

2. Heddon-on-the-Wall – East Wallhouses (10,5 km/6,5 m)

Heddon-on-the-wall

Day 1, partly due to poor orientation skills, had ultimately left us with a 27-km day hike. Given that the Hadrian’s Wall Trail was our first long-distance hike, we had decided, with an eye on possible poor recuperative ability, to immediately insert a leisurely transitional stage on day 2. From Heddon-on-the-Wall to East Wallhouses (toponyms with Wall are in demand) it ended up being only 10.5 km. It gave us the opportunity to sleep a little longer and enjoy the full breakfast in peace.

Consequently, we had time enough to give our first stretch of wall the attention it deserves. Indeed, it is half a miracle that remnants of that length can be found at this site. Indeed, in the most populated areas, locals used the stones to build houses, churches and other structures. Also, the busy B6528, which will run parallel to the hiking trail for quite some time, is only a few metres away from this site. A few centuries before, the Military Road ran here, which was supposed to ensure a fast connection between Newcastle and Carlisle. These are all factors that caused nothing of archaeological value to remain in other places.

Here, however, a piece of wall measuring a whopping 125 metres in length can be found. It is also special because it paints a picture of how the Romans originally intended the wall to take shape. Indeed, at Heddon-on-the-Wall one finds wide foundations as well as a wide wall. Due to the extra work involved, this was abandoned after a while. In other places, this can be seen in that a narrow wall was built on wide foundations. There is also the remains of an oven here, probably built in the early Middle Ages. Day 2 started immediately with a historical sensation.

Heddon-on-the-Wall – Harlow Hill (6,6 km/4,1 m)

The urban industrial and recreational areas were finally behind us from this stage onwards. Now it was meadows, fields and slopes that dominated the landscape. This also immediately meant that we could count on the company of sheep, lots of sheep. Usually these amiable animals are skittish and petting them is a real chore. However, the sheep in Heddon-on-the-Wall and its surroundings proved to be very sociable and their trust in the walkers infinite. One sheep even shyly tried to lick up some sunscreen. Maybe it was just a crazy flock. Our encounter with the social, slightly psychotic animals took place at the Vindovala site. There is not much to see of the fort itself. The land is owned by the municipality, but there are no plans to excavate the site for now.

Harlow Hill – East Wallhouses (3,9 km/2,4 miles)

From Harlow Hill, with its little church partly built of Hadrian’s Wall stones, it is just under 4 km (2,4 miles) to the day’s final destination, the illustrious East Wallhouses with its famous Robin Hood Inn. The next noteworthy stopover is Witthledene Reservoir’s Great North Lake. With a continuous water supply, this lake rarely freezes, making it a year-round must-see for birdwatchers. The water reservoir and nature reserve is home to 190 species of birds, deer, martens, woolly mice, squirrels and numerous other animals. Sara and I saw… 2 swans. It is, however, a cosy place to have a picnic. A good kilometre further on is already the final destination of the day, East Wallhouses, with the Robin Hood Inn as well as Vallum Farm.

The Food

We ate in the Robin Hood Inn. My main course (chicken breast, stuffed with goat’s cheese and chorizo and wrapped in ham) was delicious, especially with the local beer. Our starter was perhaps a bit too much. The peppers were simply chopped up, without removing any seeds. No dipping sauce can withstand such a spicy salvo.

The accommodation

To Hadrian’s hikers the Robin Hood Inn is almost as famous and renowned as the wall itself. The roots of the pub date back to 1752. It offers a cosy and rustic interior, lots of beer and a great name with an equally great pub sign. The room was relatively rudimentary, although quite large.

Trivia

– Henry Stedman, author of our Trailblazer guide, was very clear about his love for Vallum Farm’s lemon drizzle cake. Here’s how he describd it:

As for the food, I can personally recommend the scones, and it can only be a matter of time before hymns are being written and sung in praise of their lemon drizzle cake.

And indeed, that lemon drizzle cake was incredibly delicious.